Remove pin from molex connector7/1/2023 ![]() This not only allows the axle to be stronger, it makes it much easier to upgrade the phase wires to something fatter than what the factory installed (since they don’t have to pass through the narrow axle-nut hole). Male bullets are smaller in diameter compared to their matching female sockets.Īll the popular hot rod hubmotors now have the wire cable coming out of the motor case at a location inside the frame drop-outs (instead of at the axle-tip). Using male bullets on the motor phase wires may be a holdover from back when we had to run the connectors through the axle-nut, because the phase wires on smaller motors come through a hollow axle, and…since the axles are pretty small, the axle-nut is also pretty small. However, many builders like to keep the phase wire connectors right near the motor, to make it easier to change a flat tire. This is for waterproofing if I’m caught in an unexpected rain. ![]() I also like to make the motor phase wires that are outside of the axle long enough that the connectors are inside the battery compartment (or bag). There is nothing wrong with those, but I prefer using bullet connectors, and I like to attach the male bullets on the motor side (female on the controller side). I have bought motors that came from the vendor with Anderson connectors for the phases, and also the common ring connectors. Notice that when I cut them off, I left enough wire stub length to solder them onto another wire to make adapters. A “wrong” combination might spin backwards, or it might run a little hot fairly soon with no load on it, but…you can swap them around without frying anything.įrom left to right…ring connectors, Anderson Power Poles (APP), and my favorite (for ebike motors), the common bullet connectors. You can plug-in your controller to the three fat motor phase wires in any combination that you want (usually Blue, Green, Yellow…in alphabetical order), and it will not hurt anything. This is important to understand, so you will have confidence in what I say next. As a result, you can rotate power through three electromagnetic coil-groups (six coil-group legs), and only three of the six coil group wire-ends will need to exit the motor case. It’s because electricity will only flow through a complete circuit (both an inlet and an outlet). Therefore, one each of the two legs of each of the three coil-group wire-ends are connected together inside the hubmotor (either in a Delta or Wye configuration…confused yet?). These motors are three-phase, but…instead of having six phase wires exit the axle (which would restrict how thick each wire could be), there are only three phase wires coming out of the motor case. Most hubmotors will have either a single cable (with a bundle of wires of different sizes inside it)…OR, you can see the individual wires coming out of the hollow portion of the axle. These are typically the easiest to identify (from the rats nest of wires). You ‘can’ get a battery from the same vendor as the rest of the kit, but…it’s not a big issue to get a battery from a different supplier, as I layout in this article about making the battery-to-controller connection… ![]() If you try to mix-and-match parts? the color-codes on the wires might not match, the connectors won’t match, and…even after you swap-in matched connectors in the vital locations, the vendors will not help you trouble-shoot why some part isn’t working right. We ALWAYS recommend that you get the throttle, controller, and motor from the same vendor (plus, buy a spare throttle!). These should get you rolling, and then you can sort the other wires over time by contacting the vendor that you purchased the controller from. If you are new to ebikes? the first time you see this, it can give you a huge headache.įor those ebikers just starting out, this article will cover connectors for the three phase wires for the motor, the hall-sensors, the throttle…plus, the ignition wire (either hot-wired, or attached to an on/off switch).
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